Review: Hori Pad Mini for Nintendo Switch

Another name for this controller, as used by e.g. Play-Asia, would be Hori Mini Controller, but let’s go what Hori themselves wrote on the box. Out of all third party controller manufacturers, Hori has been around the block at least since the Famicom days and have been making their Mini like of controllers for each generation of consoles. One of earliest examples I’ve managed to scrounge up was their Mini Commander controller. Hori has maintained their above-average quality compared to their competition rather well, with few points contention here and there, like how sometimes their D-Pads don’t stack up. That’s a slight spoiler.

Also, despite this being advertisd as a Switch controller, it uses a standard USB-A jack and does function in Windows as X-Input device without any troubles. It should be noted that this controller has no wireless option.

The Mini Pad for Switch comes in variety of flavours, but I ended up picking up red as I have enough blue in my life as is. The rest of the bunch have Nintendo licensed characters on them, and I’m guessing some people would find them more appealing. Design-wise, the Super Mario is extremely lacklustre. The licensed controllers do have slightly higher price point.

The first thing with this controller is how it feels, as it stands apart from from other third party controllers on the market. The surface is not glossy plastic on the front, but has this slight, almost soft texturing. It’s a very slight satin-like feel that makes the controller almost soft to touch. A very nice feeling that does give the controller a nice first impression, though in time that will polish off. The layout is nothing special, though the yellow chosen for the face buttons does make the button legend hard to see. The issue does not matter with the other colour options, though. Hori opted to use the same kind of stick Sony’s Dual Shock 4 uses, and thus have more travel. Going from frequently using Joycons to the Mini Controller, there is some learning before you get used to how high the left stick can go. There’s very little to say about any of the face buttons, outside their height. They’re extremely accurate and satisfying to press down. They are more raised than either Joycon or Dual Shock 4 buttons, which some may prefer. The menu buttons in the middle are your usual rubber, but sadly the legend on them is barely visible. The Turbo function, however, has its own label and a LED, and it works as well as you’d expect it to. A similar labelling could’ve been used for the rest of the buttons.

In terms of general size, the controller is smaller than Switch’s screen

 

The weakest part on the controller is the D-Pad. It’s the standard Nintendo style Cross-shaped D-Pad and functions about as well as you’d expect from it. Sure, hits the directions just fine, but there’s a slight need to pay more attention on the direction pressed. Diagonals are as easy to hit as with any standard Cross D-Pad. It is superior to modern Nintendo D-Pads, harkening closer back to the NES D-Pad in feel and size. It’s far from a deal breaker, but thus far the weakest point in the controller. I can’t fault it for not being a Saturn-style D-Pad, but that’s why we have Retrobit’s Saturn controller. The intention of this controller is to be a modern generic controller rather than specifically designed for retro gaming.

One thing I really dislike with this controller, visually speaking, is that the printing doesn’t extend to the top of the front shell. It looks cheap

The shoulder buttons are as mushy as any modern controller. You don’t get any satisfaction out of them, there is not click or the like. Their travel is rather significant and plunge amount 5mm to the bottom, but the overall feel is apt. The choice of not using any kind of trigger shape serves the controller’s overall depth, as it tries to keep itself as flat as it can. Their shape and size do feel nice and you can lay most of your finger on them just fine. This is one of the few controller yours truly doesn’t have any issue having first and middle fingers on all four shoulder buttons due to their size and close proximity. Due to the dimension, they end up feeling outright pleasant. Somehow holding and handling them makes we want to eat a KitKat, there’s a similar kind of positive energy to them. Despite them being mushy, they end up working almost better than most other shoulder buttons because of their overall design.

Bumpy

Despite being rather flat controller, Mini Pad does have the usual bumps to fit your palm. They’re nicely round and sit in your hands nicely. At first the geometry does feel a bit strange, but finding a relaxed position where you just let the controller rest in your hands rather than trying to grasp it makes it feel natural. The sculpt here is satisfying and fitting. Now let’s crack this baby open.

I have to mention that everything in this controller fits perfectly together.

Hori used a similar two-layer design in their Famicom Mini Commander. The PCB that’s on top on the photo is only for the sticks. Everything else is on the PCB at the bottom. This layout is very clean looking, but there also few bits that pop out straight away. You can also see that the shoulder buttons are just slotted. Because they don’t use springs, the mushy feeling comes from the contact rubber, hence the mushy feel. Also take note of all those labelled contact points across the PCB.

Also not that dangly bit above the chip? That keeps the rubbers in place on the other side.

Everything on this controller is handled by this one chip. What’s more interesting are those PROG CON points, which probably someone could find some use fore. More importantly, this controller seems to be an excellent candidate as a project controller, as the PCB lists contact points for all the buttons as well providing a nice round base to solder to. Even changing that USB cable seems to be easier job than expected, and throwing something like a high-quality braided cable might be a worthwhile idea.

The top PCB also carries clear labelling and contact points. This should allow a customiser to replace any of the sticks with direction buttons without worrying about incompatibilities. The two halves are also connected with a sturdy flat cable, something Hori also used in their Famicom Commander Mini. The front of the bottom PCB has nothing special to it, but Hori has maintained easy access to the contacts as well as has printed their labels there. The same also applies to the shoulder buttons, making this controller oh so sweet if anyone wants to just go town and make a custom one.

 

While there is no issues with the injection moulding of the controller, everything fits just perfectly with nothing popping in or out in a weird manner, I must mention how the action buttons do have small sprues still stuck on them from the moulding process. They don’t interact with anything, so they have no effect on the buttons’ functionality. With some other third party controllers there has been a need to shave off the excess, as the tolerances have been too tight. You wouldn’t know they left those snubs in if the controller hadn’t been opened. That applies to a lot of thing. If you even open your car’s doors, you’ll find that a lot of the stuff inside has peculiar ways of being attached and probably glue blobs left and right. What you don’t see, you don’t mind.

This controller is one of the better controllers in the Mini-line. It does suffer from the D-Pad being a secondary input option, and the flat Cross shape doesn’t benefit from this. The D-Pad is not a deal breaker. For whatever reason, all modern D-Pads are in the Just fine category, with notable exceptions here and there. The second hurdle is that the controller does take few minute to get used to because of its size. People with larger hands probably will find this controller somewhat uncomfortable and somewhat fiddly, but people with normal and smaller hands should find this controller just fine. This being a Mini controller, this is as intended.

I  find myself recommending Hori’s Mini Pad for Switch on the basis of it stacking up nicely even against the first party devices. It might not be as portable as the Joycons themselves, and necessitates some kind of dock or USB-A to USB-C converter, but even then its small size makes it very portable. It doesn’t feel cheap shit, even if it might look the part due to the overall visual design. Sturdy build, nicely responsive buttons and that ever so slight soft touch on the surface hit home just nicely. One of the better options out there, not necessarily the option to take depending on your own preferences.

Also thank you WordPress and your block editor for fucking up and deleting the contents of the initially published version of this post, I hate you too.

Review: Nintendo Switch Docks, Official, DIY and HORI

Designing a game console in itself is sort of stupid hard on itself. There are no real rules to govern them. Sure, it needs to sit nicely and be as stable as possible while in use, offer good airflow and all that, but there are no ergonomic rules to follow. Not even the buttons are required to follow any set standard. The Famicom was designed to look like a toy, with short cords to the controllers and such, whereas the NES could be mistaken for a grey VCR at a quick glance. The Mega Drive was supposed to be cool with its sleek lines and shapes, contrasting shiny bits with stark black plastic. The PlayStation was supposed to sit among other grey AV station equipment, something all the subsequent PlayStations followed. Things like that, but never anything truly set in stone. What if you have some clear-cut necessities and rules determined by use? The Switch has its official docking station that is designed around the necessities to house the console and offer HDMI stance. It’s also far from being the only dock, or stand, the system has, as third parties and DIY groups have put out numerous iterations. I’ll be covering three in this review, covering the best and worst parts of each of them.

Let’s start with the Nintendo official dock.

Your normal waste of space and plastic

I have to say that from the start this has been a disappointing hunk of plastic. It has weight behind it, but that’s because it is just a huge hunk of plastic. The way the Switch sits inside of it, and how the front covers it, means that whenever you move the console up or down the front will have hard plastic pushing against the screen, scratching it at worst. Only at the very base there are itty bitty rubber pads to keep the console in place, which is laughable. You’d imagine there had been some more effort to prevent scratching. At least it guides the console in just the right way, as the USB-C port at the bottom is rigid and does not move.

That’s all the soft bits you have to hold the console itself down. Not the best solution

At the back we have this this cover flap for whatever reason, perhaps to make it look more uniform. It’s really another useless piece of plastic that should be thrown away. You can see the air vent slots there, which don’t really do much. The other vent actually goes through the PCB housing on the right, meaning the heat that it puts out goes directly inside the dock’s most important bits. A single USB and HDMI ports, with USB-C for power. Nothing much to see here. You don’t see any of them here, because I’ve already taken the stuff out and put them into another dock.

You can throw the lid away and replace it with a fan from a third-party

The stock Nintendo dock is pretty terrible. It doesn’t look attractive and is mostly just waste of resources. You could cut its size down by half and not lose in stability or usability. It’s like a last minute idea that just had to be pushed through, a necessary evil. That doesn’t excuse it from being excessive.

The PCB from this went into a DIY kit that’s sold all around the net, from Amazon to eBay and some random Chinese auction sites. I picked this one from eBay for about seven euros.

This being DIY, I’ve added those soft pads to keep the console from shifting around to any extent

In terms of size, it is one of the smallest docks for the Switch, and it of course brings some stability issues. The dock itself sits down just fine, but due to the design necessitating taking the main connecting parts from the stock dock itself means that the Switch will rock back and fort just slightly enough to make you worried. While the idea to make this DIY dock portable, it should have a base that extents whole of the main body of the console. This would have made it a very clear choice for all situations. The extensions could have been optional or foldable for added portability, but either option would have raised the price. Then again, perhaps not a bad idea.

It is very bland overall, but you can always paint it or add stickers. The HDMI and other USB ports are on the other of the dock

You really get what you pay for. You are required to do some work because it is DIY, but taking the Switch dock apart and installing the PCB into this one takes about five to ten minutes. The airflow is better in every respect and the ports are easily accessible. It’s a very straightforward dock, which can be made even better with some additional work. It is DIY after all, no reason to just leave as-is if there are additional ideas how to make it better. The only major problem is that the Switch, as mentioned, does wobble a bit while sitting on it, and this can cause some stress to the USB-C connector, as it is rigid as ever. Well, those added softpads help a lot.

Everything’s black. It’s then again, everything is black

Sure, it has more mass and size than the DIY dock before it, but considering it has a folding design means it is carries easy. It’s air vents on the back do not obstruct airflow at all either. The Switch sits on the console without any real wobble despite having no locking mechanism present. This is because of the two rubber pads put on the dock that keep the console in place just fine. There is no moving accepting level like with the stock dock. The USB-C connectors moves back and forth instead, meaning it takes more stress to break it accidentally. This is a grand design choice and shows how HORI understands some of the more important details that the Big Three often miss.

When folded, it also covers the USB-C connector, adding protection

The dock sports four standard USB ports, meaning each of the four players can plug in their own USB controller, though none of them are USB 3. Sadly, HORI’ s PS3 controller’s don’t work with it. USB-C port means you can charge the console on this dock as well, or just use it to play any game in portable mode. The dock has multiple angles that will do the job more than fine. This would be an excellent dock to the point of replacing the Nintendo’s official one, except it has not HDMI port. While this is a dedicated portable mode stand, the addition of HDMI capability would have made this probably the best dock the Switch has. Now, that goes to many of the other variants that recycle Nintendo’s official PCB in their housings. Well, it does advertise itself as Portable Table Mode on the cover, so perhaps it is a bit unfair to harp on the lack of HDMI. Despite having a folding design, it just bulky enough not to fit with any of them smaller Switch carry cases. Still, far more portable than the base dock.

Another losing point is that it has no support for vertical mode whatsoever. You can put it sideways and have the whole contraption sitting rather awkwardly and somewhat unstable on the table, but it’s far car what it should be. HORI missed this altogether, which drops the dock’s overall score a bit. Sure, none of the other docks to either, but this is supposed to be dedicated tabletop mode dock.

This isn’t recommended. I’m pretty sure adding some sort of additional leg to the bottom that can be folded out or something would be easy to implement, but haven’t got around seeing how to mod it in yet

Out of all these three, there really is no one better over the other. They all lack something, while beating others in some aspect. It all depends which mode you enjoy your Switch the most. If you’re all about portable mode, Hori’s tabletop dock is your best choice. For TV play, you could do worse than the small DIY dock. Ranking it higher than Nintendo’s own product may seem cheap, but the sheer bulk is its downfall. I have to say that it is disappointing that none of the docks I’ve seen thus far have not taken vertical mode into account to any significant extent, meaning playing games in that mode is still difficult.

I’m really starting to get tired of all of my electronics being black, grey or white. Where’s the use of colours? All we get nowadays are LED highlights and such. I miss the 90’s colourful devices

Review of the Month; Hori Mini Commander for Famicom

Hori’s been a long time on the third-party controller market. Usually they are of pretty high quality, offering relatively cheap price for a solid, no-nonsense controller that serves just fine. I’ve covered quite a few Hori product on this blog, and I have to say that I do have a slight personal bias for their products due to my good experiences with them. Hell, I still use my Rockman.EXE GBA softcase that was designed for the Game Boy Advance, because it’s so well made. Currently it houses my European 3DS.

This time we’re going back to one of Hori’s earlier third-party controllers, the Famicom Mini Commander. It seems like Hori has been doing smaller alternatives since the start. This controller also seems to be relatively obscure, and is the miniature version of the more well-known Hori Famicom Commander. For a more comprehensive review, we’re also going to open the controller to see what it has eaten.

DSC_6489.JPG
I’m also using large file size with these photos, because I’m sick and tired of gnat-shit size pictures that are all around the net. Notice how neat Hori’s old logo is. More after the jump

Continue reading “Review of the Month; Hori Mini Commander for Famicom”

Review of the Month; HORIPAD3 Mini

Let’s not beat around the bush, the standard SONY PlayStation 3 controller is pretty bad, and I’m not talking just about the L2 and R2 shoulder buttons. I’m talking about the lack of build quality, the lack of sturdiness and the fact that it comes with a USB cord too short to use it in daily play from your couch when in needs to be charged.

I’ve gone through a number of official PS3 controllers with varying success. The last one that broke on me simply stopped recognizing R2 and Triangle buttons, and the plastic began to warp and come apart. I still don’t know where in my apartment the controller flew, because I got sick of it and flung it across the room. I still find bits and pieces of it. I assume it was partly atomised by the impact.

As such, I’ve been looking for some replacement controllers. Having good experience with HORI through the years since the original PlayStation third-party controllers. That’s brand loyalty to you. HORI overall is a company that does decent work with their products, going for lower price with good value. They’re not a premium brand by any means, but their products tend to be better than most other third-party products.

It's pretty nifty
It’s pretty nifty controller with a 250cm cord. Long enough to enjoy gaming from your couch just fine

HORIPAD3 Mini is the current replacement for my main PS3 controller. While its outer appearance looks slightly gaudy with the transparent look and crystal pattern in the handles, it’s shaped nicely to fit your hands. This being a Mini controller, people with larger hands might fond this uncomfortable to hold.

Generic silhouette does resemble the first party controller
Generic silhouette does resemble the first party controller…. somewhat

D-Pad and Sticks

Some of the elements in Mini controller over the standard one. First, the D-Pad is better. It’s a concave in shape, and your thumb sits nicely in there. Originally I was hesitant if this was a good move from their part, but the simple fact that it’s a connected plus shape that rocks back and forth nicely gives it an accurate feeling all around. However, it shares the same hard plastic as the sticks, and while its texturing is different, it can be a bit harsh on your thumb. The sticks are firmer than on standard pad, and while trying them as-is feels weird, during gameplay the resistance they offer is surprisingly comfortable. Personally, I’ve found my movement becoming more accurate with these. However, the hard plastic is harsh on your thumb and it doesn’t help that the directional arrows moulded on the sticks’ surface will make you feel tender. On a plus side, they add a bit more control and the ever slight addition of physical indication to which direction you are pushing the stick to.

Buttons

Due to the smaller size, the face buttons have been slimmed down in diameter and are sitting in a smaller cluster, but they are higher. There is more resistance in them, but only just enough. They feel sturdier than the standard controller’s and their surface is rounder. They lack the colour coding, but overall feel just as good.

The Start and Select buttons are the same shape, and due to any kind of colouring in the letters on the plastic, you’ll just have to remember which one is which. The extra round button is for Turbo, and works pretty much like any other Turbo function with two modes. One for turbo fire when the button is pressed down, and an autofire. You can determine the rate with the switch between Start and Select buttons.  The Home button lacks the PlayStation logo, and like many others, HORI has chosen to add letters PS for it. It’s the weakest visual element and feels lazy.

IMG_4370
A green light flashes as the Turbo is being repeated. I have no idea where that screw came from, it’s not part of the controller. One could possibly throw 360 Stick add-on to make the surface feel nicer, but I haven’t tested this myself

Nothing much going on the back
Nothing much going on here

The shoulder buttons are better. L2 and R2 are raised higher up and retain slight trigger shape, but don’t slip down. The only hard corners found in the controller are in the label indentation and that 90-degree part between shoulder buttons where the wire comes out. The screw distribution is nice and you don’t notice them without testing.

Shape

IMG_4378The seams are superior to the standard controller and  it give a much nicer feel

One of the main issues I can see people having with this controller is that the handles are sharper than the standard controller’s. This is where the main bulk from the standard controller comes from, and in Mini they are more curved, far more rounded down. It fits smaller hands better and overall is more ergonomic as opposed to more blockier design of the standard SONY controller.

The seam around the controller is smaller than with the standard one, meaning you’ll accumulate less dead skin in there. However, due to the hard plastic used in the controller’s buttons, you may find more dead skin on the stick’s arrows and in the label indentation in the back due to its hard corners.

Overall

The controller has no Bluetooth and lacks rumble, but this is a controller that costs a solid 20€. I won’t cry for either one. The removal of battery pack also means the controller weight considerably less than the standard one. Kudos to HORI for using traditional PCB in Mini, as the standard PS3 controllers use a Strip PCB, which is far more prone to break down. The plastic is sturdy, but doesn’t feel quite right for a controller. It’s not the same kind of plastic HORI has used previously with their translucent controllers. It would have been preferable to use similar black plastic they used in their Fighting Commander 3 PRO. The plastic becomes slightly sticky in feeling after your hands have started to sweat a bit, but on the plus side the plastic doesn’t have any surface paint or texturing to polish off, unlike with the standard controller.

Overall, the HORIPAD3 Mini is a competent replacement that also works on PC, at least on Windows 7. The lack of Bluetooth connection will be a breaking point to some, rumble less so. It has become my main controller simply because it does its job well enough. The sticks being hard plastic and not all that nice to your thumb is the worst design point in the controller, but even that can be lived with at this price point.

As a reference, the games played with this controller in order to test this were Dragon’s Crown (D-Pad was selected for movement), Drakengard 3, Gundam Vs. Extreme and Money Idol Exchanger.

Review: Hori Fighting Commander 3 PRO PlayStation 3 controller

Goddammit I hate to write that name. Why couldn’t it be called HORI Fight Pad 3?

This review comes out of necessity. There’s zero proper reviews on this controller outside OMGF B3S7 CONTROLLAR 4EVAH or the like. I’ve supported HORI’s products for a long time due their good build quality and decent pricing. At times they do something that they intent to be new and awesome, and at times they fail at making such a product.

I’m ditching FC3P pad against two other products; one of the cheapest arcade sticks out there (also made by HORI) and the Sega Saturn controller. If FC3P is as good as pretty much everybody on the Internet says, then it should come out as at least as good as the Saturn pad. I’ll be frank from the get go; this controller won’t replace your arcade stick, but we’ll see if it is a good alternative.

So let’s check what this little beast has going on.
The controller is unique in sense that it’s asymetrical. I know some people are going to miss the second handle, but I don’t. It gives a nice grip while allowing you to “piano” the face buttons, but also mimics the Saturn controller’s edges with excessive design. It’s not uncomfortable at all, but takes some time to get to. The placing of the buttons in this controller however rise a question which I’ll return later.


Turnable D-Pad, six-button layout, turbo mode, and changeable D-pad status. Also, four NORMAL shoulder buttons and not the triggery kind? Brilliant!

Let’s with functions starting from left to right. The D-pad can be turned from it’s upright position max. 20 degrees clockwise. In the image I’ve turned it about 9 degrees. The D-pad is without a doubt the best in the generation, as behind the controller you find a lock mechanism that decides how tight or loose it is. While the people who haven’t played a lot with the D-Pad won’t notice a significant changes with this, but personally I noticed that certain moves were easier to pull off when the D-Pad doesn’t go all bonkers. I’m looking at you, Dreamcast controller.

Finding the sweetspot for the angle is a tricky business. You open the lock with the wheel beneath the D-Pad, which feels somewhat mushy. Doesn’t affect the gameplay thou. It’s much easier to throw quarter-circles and half-circles when the D-Pad in proper position. The D-Pad itself is very good with nice concave shape, which allows your thumb to rest in there and do pretty much whatever you want with it. The surface is slightly textured which I like, and has a soft touched as opposed to your standard PS3 controller.

When compared to the Saturn controller the D-pad still feels a bit harsh. While the Saturn controller makes that small sound whenever one of the main directions is hit, FC3P stays silent. In general, you have to be more aware what direction you’re inputting with the FC3P. The disc shape of the Saturn controller also allows slightly better control over the simple D-Pad shape, as the whole area of thumb is there. Same amount of force goes for both. It’s hard to top the Saturn controller in general, and FC3P comes close, but these minor complaints puts it slightly lower in the Best D-Pad scale. However, seeing this is the best D-Pad since N64, there’s little to complain overall.


Disclaimer; I know pitching any controller against Sega Saturn controller is unfair as hell

When compared to an arcade stick, this D-Pad loses, at least when it comes to fighting games. Arcade stick is always better than a D-Pad.

Select, PS Home button and Start do what they should. There’s nothing to write about them. However, the DP-LS-RS dipswitch switch what the D-Pad really is. DP for D-Pad, LS for Left Stick and RS for Right Stick. This makes it possible to use with some games that don’t really support D-Pad or Sticks.

The Turbo function is what you’d expect. Press Turbo while pressing the buttons you want to be repeated. Adjust the speed with the dipswitch. Clean and cut, no worries here.

The shoulder buttons are an interesting entity, not because they’re anything special, but that there’s a switch that changed L and R buttons the other way around. The switch is located at the top of the controller and not visible in the pictures. The shoulder buttons are awesome because they’re basic and extremely working. For some reason I actually find myself using and enjoying them unlike with normal PS3 or 360 controller.

Now, the six buttons. Hooboy.
HORI decided to put the six buttons. The angle the buttons are to each other mimics extremely Saturn controller’s, but the buttons are slightly bigger, closer to each other. The shape and spacing gives an illusion of more room, but it really isn’t so. When holding it like a normal control the Square and Cross buttons feels slightly too far away, tiring your hand without a proper reason. With four buttons fighter like The King of Fighters XIII you can assign the attacks to the closest buttons to your hand, but there’s no real reason to look the fact that spacing is a bit bad. People with larger hands (ie. pretty much everybody beside the ladies) will find the spacing pretty comfortable. Actually, the spacing is explained by the fact that this controller was made for the US market in mind.

However, while holding the controller in your lap for piano play, the controller suddenly gets cramped and too small. It’s completely possible to play all the matches with this position, but it’ll take some time. At least the buttons are extremely awesome for this and offers far better controls and tactile feeling than any other control pad. If we put the arcade controller next to the piano method, we can see why arcade controllers are as large as they are; they offer more freedom of movement and space the buttons clearly and alongside the hand’s curve. The buttons are bigger and at better reach. With FC3P your hand is in a small slump while with arcade controller your hand basically rests on the buttons.

All in all, the tactile feeling in the buttons is as good as with the Saturn controller after some time getting used to them. However, the shape and no real distinction of what button is what lessens the usability. With Saturn the top row is different from the lower, and with the arcade controller you just know because arcade controllers. It also seems that these buttons are one-level pressure sensitive only, and some games didn’t even go past the title screen when tested on them, namely the newer 2D Bloodrayne. Damn, this controller would’ve been awesome for 2D games, but now the buttons won’t even make the game start.


Disclaimer; I know this arcade controller has shit buttons

Is the controller worth it?
If you do not have an arcade stick for your PS3 (like me) then this is an option. It offers far superior control over moves and methods than what a normal PS3 controller can’t offer, but it’s design has few minor flaws that limit its final grade. The biggest setback outside fighting games is that it literally doesn’t work with all games because of the action buttons. I’d believe this to be the foremost flaw in the design, but it has to be overlooked slightly because this is a fighting game controller specifically. You won’t be able to play games that need dual sticks to function either, but hey, most of them are pure concentrated subparity as it is so no losses there.

The idea in this controller is there, and the build quality and long USB cable do offer a fresh change. By all accounts this is indeed a decent controller. It won’t replace your arcade stick, but at least in fighting games this is the better game pad.

But y’know what’s the most single best thing in this controller? It works with Windows 7 (at least). Just plug it in and enjoy.